Tianjin | The first breakfast city in the north, hiding half of China's modern history

"Came to Tianjin Wei ah, well did not learn! I learned to drive a car and killed more than two hundred......" In June, Brother Xiang went to Tianjin. Many people may only know Tianjin as "one of the four municipalities directly under the Central Government", or as "Gendu", which is full of joy. But if you want to choose China's "northern breakfast first city", it must be Tianjin.

So Tianjin "guard mouth" guys, have some breakfast? From the famous water filling baozi at home and abroad, the jianbing indicated, to the local people understand the ring, pot dish, pastry, fried cake, tofu, noodle tea, milk, shaobao, sheep soup...... In the city of Tianjin, you can go a month without doing the same thing.

Every morning, the uncles and aunts lining up in front of the breakfast stall with POTS and pans are definitely a scenic sight in Jinmen - even for breakfast, it is totally worth coming to Tianjin!

To understand the modern history of Tianjin, it is useful to start with Haihe. This mother river of Tianjin not only carries the culture of Tianjin for 600 years, but also records the history of modern China.

There is a saying in Tianjin, which is called "nine rivers under Tianjin Wei, three pontoon Bridges and two passes." Open the map and you will find that the Haihe River system is like a fan surface, with countless small and large tributaries joining the Haihe River and eventually flowing into the Bohai Sea. Tianjin can become one of the most prosperous cities in China in modern times, also because of the convenience of the Haihe river system.

But the fact is not so, perhaps Tianjin's natural scenery is slightly inferior, but as a city with more than 600 years of history of the "second largest city in the north", Tianjin's historical heritage is very rich. Especially in modern Tianjin, there have been countless events and great changes, which have left the city with too much thinking and aftertaste. It can be said that in the city of Tianjin, half of China's modern history is hidden.

In 1860, Britain, France and Russia forced the Qing government to sign the Treaty of Beijing, which forced Tianjin to become a treaty port. Britain, France and the United States took the lead in setting up consulates, garages and concessions in Tianjin. After the First Sino-Japanese War, Germany and Japan followed suit in establishing concessions in Tianjin. After the Boxer Incident in 1900, Russia, Italy, Austria and Belgium did not want to be outdone and divided up land and concessions in Tianjin one after another, making Tianjin the city with the most foreign concessions in modern Chinese history.

Due to its proximity to Beijing, Tianjin is relatively far from the center of the political struggle, but it is convenient to get information and observe the situation. Foreign concessions, in particular, had independent administrative and legal powers and were not subject to the constraints of the rulers at the time. Many famous people in modern Chinese history, including the old and young of the Qing Court, disgraced politicians and warlords, cultural celebrities and scholars, have lived in Tianjin Concession, making Tianjin a place where modern celebrities gather.

In the original nine-country concession, including today's Five Avenues, Jiefang North Road and Italian style area, thousands of exotic small houses, banks, foreign firms and churches have been left behind, making Tianjin known as the "International Architecture Expo".

At the same time, the old city buildings represented by Tianhou Palace, Confucian Temple and Guangdong Guild Hall are also filled with Jinmen's ancient charm. The modern buildings such as Jinwan Square and Tianjin Eye show the modern and fashionable side of Tianjin.

In addition, there is one of the "three Liao monasteries" of the thousand-year ancient temple Jizhou Dule Temple, its historical and cultural value, worthy of the heart of the ancient architecture lovers of the holy land.

Tianjin is a city whose cuisine is as intricate and all-encompassing as its history. So the "guard mouth" of Tianjin, all like to eat some?

The first is the water-filled bun, which is shaped like chrysanthemum, as Guo Donglin said in the CCTV Spring Festival Gala, "the thin skin and big stuffing 18 folds are like a flower." Take a bite and you'll get a juicy surprise!

And Tianjin jianbing, popular across the country. This traditional snack is divided into two kinds of fruit and grate, Xiang Brother prefers the latter, one bite down, the grate is so crispy, so delicious that people lick their fingers!

When it comes to talking about Tianjin people's breakfast, it must not be less Guoba dishes. The fullness of flatbread, marinade and sesame paste fills the whole mouth. Even if the heat is explosive, it is difficult to stop the desire to eat it!

There are rolls, in the heart of the "guard mouth" status, comparable to the existence of pancake fruit. The outside is crispy and fragrant, the inside is full of filling aroma, taste and taste are quite layered, it is too fragrant.

Pastry is a traditional dim sum in Tianjin, and it is also a childhood memory of many Tianjin people. Soft and waxy, sweet and sour filling instantly captured the taste buds!

Bean curd is also the most common breakfast in Tianjin. Eat a spoonful, the rich salty flavor can not be suppressed in the mouth spread, let a person endless aftertaste.

There is also a humble noodle tea, looks like a pot of paste, glutinous millet noodles with sesame paste, sesame salt, a mouthful of flavor.

The most classic pasta in Tianjin is lao (lao) noodles. Xiang Brother loves the sweet and sour gluten inside, this fried to crispy oil gluten, from the inside out with an attractive sweet and sour taste.

Yellow soup noodles, also a specialty of Tianjin noodles, become more delicious and appetizing with the aroma of curry.

The Erduoyan fried cake, one of the three best in Tianjin, is golden and crisp in appearance. While it is hot, the bean paste melts between the lips and teeth in general, and the sweet but not greasy aroma invites people to bite the second mouth again!

Erduoyan Hall of sheep abalone, soup thick smooth and color like amber, rich and mellow, the entrance will know is after a long time to boil, the taste is wonderful!

Popular in Beijing and Tianjin area of traditional copper pot shabu meat, mutton in the sauce is more delicious under the harmony, the entrance juice overflowing, cotton and not wood, delicious people!

There is also Jizhou Bangjun sheep soup, raw materials are haggis, sheep heart, sheep liver, sheep stomach, sheep lung, sheep intestines and sheep blood, different tastes in the mouth in turn, produce a wonderful echo between each other.

While enjoying the food in Tianjin, Xiang Brother also enjoyed the different urban customs of Tianjin. From the aerial view, the Haihe River is like a garment belt strung with thousands of lights in Tianjin City.

【 Tianjin | Attractions 】

Jiefang Bridge

Address: Jiefang North Road, Hebei District.

From the metro Jinwan Square station, the first thing you see is Jiefang Bridge, built in 1927. This distinctive steel structure bridge, across the Hai River, was built a century ago in 1927, because it was between the French concession and the Russian and Italian concessions, so it was called the Bridge of Nations.

The Jiefang Bridge was once the most expensive bridge on the Haihe River, expensive because it is an open steel structure bridge.At that time, "the Bridge of Nations under the ship" was once a scenic line on the Haihe River. Until now, Jiefang Bridge still retains the original opening function, but there is no longer a large ship on the Haihe River, and the bridge is only opened during the festival, which is more like a sense of ceremony.

On the north side of Jiefang Bridge, there is a century bell, which is a landmark building in Tianjin Station Square in order to meet the arrival of the 21st century.

Pay close attention to this big clock, you will find that there are twelve western constellations around the clock disc relief, and the "S" shaped pendulum is a reference to the shape of Oriental tai Chi, the top of the "sun", the bottom of the "moon", meaning "Yin and Yang alternating", can be described as a combination of Chinese and Western.

To the east of Jiefang Bridge and to the north of Haihe River is Tianjin Railway Station. This railway station has a very long history, built in the 12th year of Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty (1886), is one of the earliest railway stations built by China itself.The original location of Tianjin Station was Wangdaozhuang, and in the 18th year of Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty (1892), it was moved to the "Old Dragon Head" beside the Haihe River, which is the present location. However, Tianjin Station later experienced several reconstruction, is no longer the face of the year.

【 Xikai Church 】

Address: No. 9 Xining Road, Heping District.

Go southwest along Binjiang Road until the end, you will see a Roman architectural style of Catholic church: Xikai Church. This church is the largest Catholic church in Tianjin and also the cathedral of the Diocese of Tianjin.
Xikai Church, the full name of the Catholic Xikai General Church, built in 1916, originally called "St. Miso Church", later renamed "St. Joseph's Church", and because it is located in Tianjin Old Xikai, so called "Xikai Church", the church is currently free of charge and open to the public.

The external wall of the church is made of red and yellow cylinder bricks and water masonry. Looking from a distance, the three giant tower domes on the top of the church are arranged in a "product" shape, the surface is covered with copper sheets, and each dome has a cross. The reason why the dome is green is actually the rust produced by the copper sheet under the sun and rain, but it has another kind of beauty.

Although the Xikai Church was built by the French, presiding over the construction is also the bishop of Tianjin Diocese Du Baolu of France, but in fact, the location of the Xikai Church, that is, Tianjin Old Xikai, in the early years did not belong to the scope of the French concession, the French in order to annex this land, It was the French Catholic who forcibly bought land to build churches and schools.
After the construction of the Xikai Church, the French Consul in Tianjin sent armed military police to disarm the Chinese police in an attempt to illegally incorporate the Old Xikai into the French Concession, which triggered protests by Tianjin citizens, that is, the "Old Xikai Incident" in history.

In the "Old West Drive Incident", there were two camps within the Catholic Church at that time. For example, the Belgian archdeacon of the Diocese of Tianjin, Lei Mingyuan, supported the citizens of Tianjin through the Yesho newspaper, criticized the French aggression, clashed with Du Baolu, who supported the expansion of the French Concession, and was demoted and sent to another country.
By the way, Lei Mingyuan, a Belgian missionary, is a legendary person, he formed deep feelings with China, and also organized an ambulance team to rescue the wounded in the war of resistance against Japan, which was publicly praised by the national government.

The interior decoration of Xikai Church is not gorgeous, but the whole looks solemn and elegant.
From the main entrance to the altar, the nave has two rows of fourteen pillars, forming a three-way gallery, the ceiling is a semicircular arch, and the auricle has a side door leading to the outside.

Inside the altar, there is a dome and a square pavilion with a cross, and the side porch lighting Windows are decorated with Bible stories inlaid with stained glass.

In the storm of the last century, the Xikai Church was inevitably impacted. Later, in the Tangshan earthquake in 1976, the church was damaged again, and the dome bases of the two towers were damaged, which was repaired three years later.
While enjoying the food in Tianjin, Xiang Brother also enjoyed the different urban customs of Tianjin. In most people's impression, Tianjin is not a tourist city, and there are not many places to play. It seems that no one travels specifically to Tianjin except Beijingers who are tired of staying in Beijing.

China house
Address: 72 Chifeng Road, Heping District

The porcelain house on Chifeng Road is a famous "Internet celebrity" scenic spot in Tianjin.

Here in the early years also belong to the scope of the French concession, this French house was built in the 1920s, it is said that the former residence of modern Chinese diplomat Huang Rongliang.
In 2000, a boss named Zhang bought a house. The owner, surnamed Zhang, is an entrepreneur and collector, and is rumored to be a descendant of the Zhang family, one of the "eight masters" salt merchants in Tianjin in the late Qing Dynasty. After he bought the house, he did a crazy renovation of the house, making it a very grotesque house.

Zhang's renovation of the building can be said to have been costly, first pouring the building and repairing it, and then covering the exterior walls, roofs, Windows, lintels, and even all visible exterior parts with porcelain tiles.
Not only that, on the roof ridge there is a dragon sculpture winding down, the dragon body is all wrapped in porcelain. It can be said that this house is a veritable "porcelain house".

The renovation of the porcelain house is said to share more than 700 million porcelain pieces, and these porcelain pieces are ancient porcelain, so where do these ancient porcelain pieces come from?
There is a theory that these ancient porcelain pieces came from the mouth of the Haihe Sancha River in Tianjin. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Sancha River Estuary was an important transit point for transportation into Beijing. Ships that paid tribute to imperial porcelain would pick up damaged porcelain during transportation at the Sancha River estuary and discard it at the bottom of the river or on the bank. Most of the pieces used in the porcelain house came from here.

According to the data found on the Internet, in addition to using 700 million pieces of porcelain, the porcelain house also used more than 13,000 ancient porcelain bottles, porcelain plates, porcelain bowls, more than 300 stone statues of the past dynasties, more than 300 white jade lions, more than 300 porcelain cat pillows of the Ming and Qing dynasties and more than 20 tons of crystal agate.

But for the porcelain house, both foreign tourists and Tianjin locals have mixed reviews.

Some people think that the porcelain house is a very distinctive building, and decorating the house with porcelain pieces is very creative, and even promotes Chinese porcelain culture in a unique way. But there are also many people think that the shape of the porcelain house is awkward, not only the porcelain pieces have changed the style of the historical building itself, but this non-conformable decorative style is also very inconsistent with the aesthetic.

In addition, there is a teasing, is the porcelain house 50 yuan ticket price, many people feel that it is not worth it after visiting.

Enter the interior of the porcelain house, everywhere you can see the ancient porcelain murals made of ancient porcelain collages, such as Zhou Fang in the Tang Dynasty, "Painting of a lady waving a fan", Zhang GUI in the Jin Dynasty, "Turtle Picture", Dong Yuan in the five dynasties, "Xiaoxiang Picture", Zhao Mengxu in the Yuan Dynasty, "Dongpo image", etc., in addition, there are some characteristic antique pieces, old furniture, although there is no heavy cultural relics, but the porcelain house is not interesting

Moreover, the entrance fee for many scenic spots in Tianjin is already on the high side, such as Zhang Yuan 25 yuan, Lishunde Museum 50 yuan, and the most outrageous Zhang Xueliang's former residence even 80 yuan. As a private museum with huge investment in the early stage, the ticket price of 50 yuan for the porcelain house is also a little reasonable.

Peaceful garden

Address: 70 Anshan Road, Heping District.

The west side of the former French concession in Tianjin was once the area of the Japanese concession in the early years. Turning from Nanjing Road onto Anshan Road, you come to Jing Yuan, a group of Spanish style courtyard buildings with Japanese elements.

Jingyuan was built in 1921, the original name is "dry garden", originally was the Minister to Japan Lu Zongyu's residence. After the outbreak of the May Fourth Movement, Lu Zongyu was removed from office and lived in this estate in Tianjin. What makes Jingyuan famous is Aisin Gioro Puyi, the "last emperor" who lived here from 1929 to 1931.

According to statistics, there are now more than 100 former residences of celebrities in Tianjin, among which Jingyuan is the most famous one.

In 1924, Puyi was driven out of the Forbidden City by Feng Yuxiang, and the following year, he and Empress Wanrong and Shu Concubine Wenxiu secretly went to Tianjin. They first lived in Zhangyuan, in the Japanese Concession, and later moved to Ganyuan in July 1929.

Pu Yi for the restoration of the imperial system, take "wait and see its change, wait for the time" meaning, the dry garden renamed "Jingyuan".

Aisin Gioro Pu Yi this person's life is extremely complicated, as the "last emperor", he was held on the dragon chair less than three years old, has been crowned emperor three times, and defected to Japan.
Later, he was captured by the Soviet army, detained and reformed in Buri and Fushun, and finally pardoned to become a member of the National Committee of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference, which can be said to be a legendary experience created by The Times.

After Puyi left Tianjin, Jingyuan changed owners several times, after several changes, to the beginning of this century has become more than 40 households of the courtyard. It was not until 2007 that the garden was restored and opened to the public as a museum, and the room is now restored to the interior furnishings and furniture when Pu Yi lived there.

The main building of Jingyuan is a two-story brick and wood structure, which is entered from the foyer, and on the right is the large dining room.
This is the room where Puyi entertained guests, and all kinds of politicians, warlords, and elders were once his guests. Pu Yi often discussed the situation with these people and sought an opportunity for restoration.
On weekdays, Puyi will also dance with Wanrong here, listen to the phonograph, enjoy the leisure and pleasure of the Jingyuan. It can be said that here, Puyi spent the first half of his life the most free years.

Behind the large dining room is the small dining room, where Puyi and Empress Wanrong dined.
It is said that Puyi and Wanrong liked to eat Western food, and they often went to Tianjin's most famous cheesecrins to eat western food, and especially liked the ice cream bayberry cold drink there.

Opposite to the large dining room is the Council Hall, where Puyi and the Qing family elders discussed the restoration of the place.
At that time, the old ministers of the former Qing Dynasty advocated different views on the restoration of the matter, Chen Baochen advocated the "return of the palace", Luo Zhenyu advocated the "union of Japan", Zheng Xiaoxu advocated the "joint management of the great powers". Just at the time of Puyi's mind, the visit of the Japanese let Puyi think that the restoration is expected, and finally decided to leave Tianjin.

Puyi's bedroom is located on the second floor and is the place where Puyi lives and rests.
During his time in Tianjin, Puyi looked like a foreign aristocrat, but he still retained a strong feudal sense in his heart, which was not only reflected in his quest for restoration, but also reflected in his attitude toward the relationship between husband and wife.

Next to Puyi's bedroom is Puyi's study. While living in Tianjin, Pu Yi read the most Shun Tian Times and Ta Kung Pao, and he paid attention to the current situation and public opinion trends, seeking the opportunity for restoration.
At the same time, Puyi also did not forget to enjoy Western life, to dance in Lishunde, to play golf in British rent, and to build tennis courts in Jingyuan. Most of the economic sources of these high-end consumption came from the antique calligraphy and paintings he transported from the palace.

Also on the second floor, there is Wanrong's bedroom.

In the eyes of outsiders, Wanrong is a celebrity queen. But in fact, her heart is a miserable and lonely, she and Wenxiu competition for favor, wantonly buy fashionable items, and even opium, are her empty lonely catharsis.
Wanrong's final outcome is also very sad, in 1945, Japan was defeated, she was abandoned by Puyi in Tonghua big Lizi ditch, the following year died in Yanji prison, even the bones are nowhere to find.

Wenxiu's room is located on the first floor, 1922 Puyi wedding, Wenxiu than Wanrong one day earlier into the palace, was conferred the title of Shu princess.
When living in Tianjin, Wenxiu did not want Puyi to take refuge in Japan, urged several times invalid, but Puyi was disgusted. In Puyi's indifference and Wanrong's exclusion, Wenxiu in August 1931 to wait for the opportunity to leave the Jingyuan, published a public divorce with Puyi, "knife princess revolution" for a time to become the news.
After this, Wenxiu life tossed and turned hard, but always did not bow to the Japanese.

After the Huanggu Tun Incident in 1931, Puyi's younger brother Aisin Gioro Pujie delivered a message to Puyi: The Japanese military was unhappy with Zhang Xueliang and prepared to launch a military operation in the northeast, hoping that Puyi would take over the rule of Manchuria.

Not long after, the outbreak of the September 18 incident, Puyi met the Japanese spy leader Duofeiyuan Xianji in the Jingyuan. Finally, on the night of November 10, 1931, Puyi secretly left Jingyuan and arrived in Lushun on a Japanese merchant ship, opening the curtain on the puppet emperor.

【 Zhang Yuan 】

Address: 59 Anshan Road, Heping District.

Also on Anshan Road is another famous private estate: Cheung Yuen.
The master of Zhang Garden was Zhang Biao, who had been the governor of Hubei Province and the eighth town in the late Qing Dynasty. Zhang Biao is the former Qing Dynasty old minister, he was Zhang Zhidong's ministry general, in 1900 in Hubei group training "new army", after the peace between the north and the south, removed his post, moved to Tianjin to build Zhang Garden.

In December 1924, Sun Yat-sen and his wife Soong Ching Ling arrived in Tianjin and stayed in Zhang Yuan, where he published the famous Declaration of Sun Yat-sen after his arrival in Tianjin.
The following year, the last emperor Aisin Jueluo Pu Yi, Empress Wanrong and Shu Princess Wenxiu fled from Beijing to Tianjin, and also lived in Zhang Yuan. It was not until 1929, after Zhang Biao's death, that Puyi moved to Jingyuan.

After the liberation of Tianjin, the government took over Zhangyuan, which became the office of the CPC Tianjin Municipal Committee.

Today, Zhangyuan is an exhibition hall with the theme of "The Foundation Years - Tianjin Military Administration and Tianjin Municipal Committee of the Communist Party of China in Zhangyuan". It mainly includes liberating Tianjin, taking over Tianjin, and establishing and consolidating the people's power.
ps: Although Zhangyuan is a patriotic education base, it still has to charge admission fees, as to whether it is worth spending 25 yuan to visit, it is your opinion.